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Epilogue 02 October 2008 by Theresa

Now that our adventure is over, here are some of my final random thoughts on France and the French. 

Diet and Weight:

Its not just the French Women who are skinny, the men are too. They all look like runway models. Thin boned, narrow hips, classic features with pouty lips. French women are naturally beautiful, with deep set eyes, skin that tans easily, and long flowing brown or auburn hair. There aren’t many blondes. 

In the recent best-seller, “French Women Don’t Get Fat”, the author, Mireile Guiliano claims French women are skinny because they eat small portions of good food. 

I think its more than that. For one thing, its body type. On our last day in Paris, Kevin and I were sitting at an outdoor cafe when four French women walked by in a line, linking arms and talking. And as they walked by, it struck me how they looked like gazelles. Tall and thin in skinny jeans and high heals. I don’t know who ancestors of the French are: Gauls? Franks? But I do know they are different from mine.

Most North Americans come from German, Polish, Belgium ancestors. And we are thick boned and wide hipped. Built for having babies. While the French women look like the gazelles, I look like a Clydesdale. And there is no way a Clydesdale can look like a gazelle no matter how skinny it is. 

The other reason they are so skinny is because they smoke. All the time. Like crazy. They don’t snack. They smoke instead. Every woman you see walking by either has a cigarette in her hand or a cell phone. 

Other books and research talk about the so called Mediterranean diet of red wine, fresh local produce, fish, bread, etc. being good for your heart. 

Mike told us there were only six cows in all of the Rhone Valley. They don’t seem to eat much dairy products except for some cheese at the end of a meal. 

But this smoking and diet comes with a price: I never saw so many older adults, age fifty and up, with osteoporosis. Severe spine bending hunched over osteoporosis. It was shocking. 

Fashion:

Because they are so skinny, anything looks good on them. Their thighs are about as thick as their ankles, so they choose to wear skinny jeans, skinny pants, or leggings. 

In Black. Everything in black, or maybe grey if they feel adventurous. A hint of red now and then for scandal. 

They never wear tennis shoes. Only expensive leather flats or high heals. And everyone, including the men, usually have a thick scarf wrapped a few times around their neck. 

Men frequently have masculine leather shoulder bags with long straps so they can put it across their chest. 

I saw many women wearing loose cuffed shorts that fell about mid thigh, with black tights and boots. 

Their dresses and skirts are flowing and short, above the knee, but always with black tights or leggings. Never any nude or light coloured pantyhose. 

Occasionally I saw moccasins with tights. Those old fashioned ankle kind with fringe we used to wear in the 60’s.

The men also favour black skinny pants and dark jeans. Not cowboy jeans with belts. Dress jeans. With long sleeved shirts and sweaters. Never t-shirts. 

Big sunglasses like movie stars. But few wear regular glasses. Either they all have perfect vision or contacts. 

Dolce and Gabbana belts. Large tote like bags for purses for the women. Small thin bags for the men, or if they are businessmen

Bathrooms:

They are called Water Closets or toilets. 

In North America, our toilets are pretty much standardised. When you walk into a public toilet or a shopping mall or restaurant, you know you are going to get the kind with the metal flushing knob on the left of the tank. (electronic ones at airports are the exception)

In France, you never know what you are going to get. The hole in the floor squat and aim toilet is mainly reserved for free public toilets in smaller towns.

Standard tank toilets can have a pedal on the floor you push, a string from the ceiling you pull, a knob at the top of the tank you pull, or a knob on the tank you push. My favourite is the combination two button variety. The small button for “number one” produces a small amount of water for the flush, and the large button for “number two” that produces, you guessed it, more water and power for those really big messes.

Toilet paper comes in a rainbow of colour. Red, pink, blue yellow. I think coloured paper was banned here in North America ages ago because the dye leached into rivers and streams and was toxic to fish. Not so in France. 

Hotels don’t provide wash clothes. So if you like to use them to wash your face or in the shower, you have to bring your own. 

Not all hotels provide tissue in a box either. So be prepared to use scratchy toilet paper instead. 

Their toilet paper maybe be scratchy, but their paper napkins ins restaurants are thick and soft. The French have their priorities. 

Dogs:

They take their dogs everywhere, and they are welcome everywhere. In restaurants, in stores, on subways. And they don’t always clean up after them, so you have to walk with you head down to avoid the poop on the side walk. 

Street cleaners come by often, a guy with a hose walks ahead of a truck, spraying all the poop into the central gutter, and a big street cleaner comes along behind to spray, wash and suck it up. 

Random Thoughts About Everything Else:

According to Wikipedia, The Paris Metro (subway) system is the second busiest subway in Europe, after Moscow. It carries 4.5 million passengers a day, has a total length of 133 miles, has sixteen lines, 300 stations and 384 stops. The first line opened in 1900! 

Kevin and I rode it daily while we were in Paris, and no where did I see a homeless person, nor trash overflowing, nor smell urine in the corners. It was neat, tidy, efficient with art nouveau architecture. And what struck me as strange was the lack of security personal or police to make sure it stayed that way. 

Our visit to Versailles was marred by a collection of “art” installed in every room by an American Artist, Jeff Koons. It was hideous, and I don’t know why such a beautiful palace like Versailles would choose to show his works. I refused to take pictures of them, they were so out of place. For example, you’d walk into this heavily ornate gothic room of gold and red with painted masterpieces on the ceiling, and there, in the middle of room sat a giant red shiny balloon dog. In another beautiful room was a statue of Michael Jackson reclining on his side holding Bubbles, his chimpanzee. Another had a giant red lobster hanging from the ceiling. 

The arrows on signs take some getting used to in Europe. When we in North America wish to indicate something is straight ahead,  we paint an arrow pointed straight up on the sign. Europeans use an arrow pointed straight down. I was forever looking for stairs leading down. When they do mean “go down” they will point the arrow down at an angle to the right or to the left, depending on where the sign is hanging. 

The little folding sac made of nylon I bought at the Hudson’s Bay Company was the best thing I ever brought with me. It would fit folded in my purse until we needed it to stuff coats or water bottles into it. Or bread or cheese. 

I wish I had a bought a portable clothesline. They usually wasn’t a shower curtain bar at most hotels to hang stuff on.  They seem to favour glass doors. 

The Museum Pass, which comes in three, four or six day varieties, saved us time. We never had to stand in a ticket line. Never had to make that decision at the door, “is it worth the 10 Euros to go in?” We had the pass, it covers many museums. We just went in. 

In the 1990’s, Paris was plagued by a series of bombings from Separatists. The home made bombs would be hidden in the metal trash bins that line the streets. The authorities solved that problem by replacing all the trash cans with clear plastic garbage bags that hang from holders.

Gasoline here in Ottawa now costs $1.05 a liter. In France, it was about $1.50 Euros a liter, or $2.22 Canadian. That works out to about $7.90 US per gallon! My goodness, they pay a lot for gasoline.

Home

Wednesday 01 October 2008 Home in Ottawa by Theresa

Did anyone notice that we changed the name of this blog to “One Pound at a Time?” We suspected that we were putting on weight, and when we hopped on the scales this morning for the first time in three weeks, it was confirmed. Kevin says he is “up”. I’ve gained 8 pounds. I suppose after splitting a bottle of wine every day for 21 days, plus a glass at lunch, beer in the afternoon, eating out for nearly every meal, it’s bound to add up. 

The trip back home was long, involving many steps. We got up early on Tuesday, around 5:20 a.m. (that’s 11:20 p.m. here-some of you were probably just going to bed). Kevin had finalised and paid the hotel bill the night before, which turned out to be a good thing, because no one was manning the front desk when we left. Its a small, family run hotel. Very nice people. Its called the Hotel de Londres Eiffel, and we recommend it highly. 

We let ourselves out the self locking door, and walked into the still dark morning, the empty streets, and the quiet calm before the rest of the city woke up. 

Caught the metro and made one transfer to an RER train station which served Charles de Gaulle airport. The train was surprising crowded which was odd, since it was leaving the city, and not every one on the train had luggage for the airport. I suspect it was filled with night workers who were heading home after the late shift. 

It was standing room only on the train, but Kevin and I managed to find two fold down aisle seats and shoved our bags underneath and sat on them. 

The train ride took about a half hour, and I guess nerves were fraying, because as we were disembarking, an Australian family with lots of luggage bumped a large swarthy looking woman with a bag and she started screaming and yelling (in perfect English) that it hurt, and that the young woman who hit her was an ugly bitch, etc. etc. The father told the woman to back off or he’d take her on. The yelling continued onto the platform, and everyone, including Kevin and I tried to just ignore it and move on. 

As we went up escalators to the terminal, I kept looking back to see if the group was still going at it, but I couldn’t find them anymore. 

Once in the airport, we found a place to have breakfast. You are not going to believe this, but we ate at McDonald’s. The French version. We got the egg McMuffin meal deal which included drinkable yogurt and mini croissants. 

We were scheduled to fly on Swiss Air to Zurich. We had to wait for our gate to be assigned before we could check in, which seems to be typical of French airports. Once the gate was posted, we were directed to a particular check in area number. Once we checked in, then we went to the gate. Each gate has its own security facility in front of it, so we didn’t actually pass through the security until just before we boarded the plane. 

Kevin set off alarms with the corkscrew we bought in Avignon, so he had to relinquish it. I set of alarms because the x-ray screener thought he saw a screwdriver in my bag. Instead of searching my bag, they just made me take the bag through the machine again. The second time I passed.

Once in Zurich, we had to proceed to a “transfer desk” to get seat assigments and a boarding pass for the next leg of our flight to Montreal. For some reason they couldn’t do this at Charles de Gaulle. 

We took a subway train to another terminal, and this meant another passport check and another security check close to our gate. 

The flight from Zurich to Montreal on Swiss Air took almost eight hours, but it passed quickly. They kept feeding us all these wonderful meals and snacks and chocolates and plying us with drinks and orange juice. I don’t remember having such a delicious airline food before. 

All the attendants and pilots spoke three languages fluently: German, French and English. I can’t even speak English that well, if the misunderstandings Kevin and I have is any indication. 

We arrived in Montreal around three in the afternoon, but my body clock was saying nine at night, and I was getting tired. Another large plane arrived about the same time as we did, and I feared we would have a long wait at customs. The room was huge with those ropes herding hundreds of people back and forth like a snake. Luckily, there was a separate, shorter line for those like us connecting to another flight, so we got through customs quickly. 

Off to another transfer desk to get another boarding pass for the last leg of our trip. And another trip through security. This time, they were all very interested in my liquid quart bag. Examining it, looking at it, turning it over, even sweeping the insides with a special wand and analysing the results with a computer monitor. I was quite taken aback at all the attention. 

Finally, we were in North America again. The people look, sound and act so different! We stopped in the nearest bar and had a beer to celebrate. 

The flight to Ottawa was shorter than our layover in Montreal. It was raining when we arrived. Caught a taxi home to Greely and greeted the cat, made a few phone calls, send out an e-mail to my sisters, and went to bed. 

I don’t know how long it will take to get adjusted to this new time zone. We were up at three a.m. this morning, and boy have I got a lot done already! 

The package that we had mailed from Aix still hasn’t arrived.

I plan to post one more blog, so keep reading.

Monday 29 September 2008 by Theresa

Last day in Paris. Last day in France.

Eiffel Tower, shrouded in low cloud

Eiffel Tower, shrouded in low cloud

Today our plans kept changing as the weather kept changing. Kevin checked the weather before we went for breakfast, and said “its supposed to cloud over this afternoon, so maybe we should go up the Eiffel tower this morning instead of this afternoon.” On the walk to the cafe, he looked up in the sky and said “hmmm, it’s starting to cloud over already, maybe we should hurry up to do the Eiffel tower soon.” So we ate, went back to the hotel, filled up a water bottle for the long wait in line for tickets, and headed out. We were both shocked to see the tower shrouded in fog.

So there we stood on the street corner with our guide book, trying to figure out what to do instead. We also planned to go to Montmarte today, which is a hilly area north of the city with a church and great views of the city. We decided to gamble that the fog would be lifted by the time we took the three subway transfers to reach Montmarte.

We lost that gamble. Paris was still covered in a misty haze when we reached the top of the hill, and all the views described in the guide book were useless.

I hated the Montemarte neighborhood. The guide book described it as “bohemian”. Translation: flea markets, urine smell in the corners, broken beer bottles on the steps to the church, and hucksters lined up two feet apart ready to nab unsuspecting tourists with the “let me make a friendship bracelet on your wrist” scam. After he finishes weaving the string around your wrist, he asks you to pay for the bracelet, and since you can’t take it off, you are obliged to pay up. Others lay their blankets on the sidewalk to block your path and lay their goodies for sale on top. Every “salesman” sells exactly the same thing: cheap copies of the Eiffel tower, jewelery and post cards. I got tired of saying no, leave me alone. If I wanted to be harassed at every turn, I’d of gone to Mexico. Actually, I can get that back home in the Byward Market.

I was crabby, so Kevin was smart enough to take me someplace else to cheer me up: we went to Champs Elysees. Walking along that wide sunny boulevard with all those expensive shops did wonders for my mood. We walked to the Arc de Triomphe and climbed to the top. There was still a haze over the city, but we could identify a few landmarks.

We stopped in a cafe for a lunch outside. Celebrating the moment.

After some more window shopping, we took the metro back towards our hotel and walked towards the Eiffel tower for a few last pictures. Then one last walk along Rue Cler to decide where we want to eat our last meal in Paris.

Back at the hotel now. Packing. Sad that we are going back to reality soon.

Not sure if there will be a blog entry tomorrow since we’ll be traveling all day. But keep reading. I want to post some final thoughts on random topics: dogs in France, toilets, fashion, why women in France are so skinny (they are!) etc. Au Revoir!

28 Sept – Dinner

28 September 2008 Update

How not to eat cassoulet. This is a traditional dish from the southwest of France: a white bean, duck and sausage stew. Kevin has been wanting me to try this for some time. We found a restaurant with the dish on the menu, so we went in.

They really pack them in, these French restaurants. Kevin says it because once you sit down and order, you’ve “purchased” your table for the evening. So French eateries don’t rely upon high turn over to make money, they rely upon having as many seats per square foot as possible.

The waiter pulled out a table and wedged me into a bench and pushed the table back. Sealing me in for the evening, because there was a table of four one inch to our right, and another one tight to the left. The only way out was to turn into a puddle on the floor.

I ordered the cassoulet, and when it came, the waitress (or serving wench) had to really reach to set the bowl down, to the right of my place setting. I thought I would help, so I moved the bowl of food in front of me. She chastised me and told me to move it back (in French) I didn’t understand a word she said, but I knew from her mannerisms and look that she meant business. I moved the bowl back to the right of my cutlery. She then laid down a huge empty plate in front of me and left. I looked at Kevin and asked, “is there something more coming? Should I wait?” We waited for a bit, and when the food police didn’t come back, I moved the bowl onto my plate and ate my stew.

Later, I looked around the restaurant, and noticed other patrons with the same rustic bowls holding the cassoulet, a house specialty. I watched as they spooned helpings of stew from the bowl on their right onto their empty plates and ate it.

Boy, they must have had a good laugh about me in the kitchen!

Later, when it came time to pay the bill, I made sure Kevin waited for the waiter to give him change, and return with it. That was our clue to leave. Kevin got up, the waiter quickly and swiftly pulled the table away, and I squeezed myself out of there. We laughed ourselves silly on the sidewalk outside the restaurant, under the blue glow of the Eiffel tower above us. It was a good night.

28 Sept – Paris Day Four

Monday, 28 September 2008, Paris: Orsay Museum and Sainte-Chapelle by Theresa

Its definitely fall. It got down to 7 degrees C last night (low 40’s F) but warmed up to a gorgeous, sunny 21 degrees (high 70’s). We left the hotel with our coats and sweaters in the morning, and returned in the late afternoon with them stuffed in a bag.

View of the main floor of the Orsay museum

View of the main floor of the Orsay museum

We had breakfast this morning at our new favorite cafe. Its close to the metro stop as well, so after eating we caught our train, transferring once, to reach the Orsay Museum. I downloaded a tour of the Orsay from Rick Steve’s website before our trip (transferred it to our iPods) and it was very helpful explaining many of the statues and paintings and skipping the ones that weren’t important.

What a lovely museum. It’s in an old train station with high arched ceilings, and the lay out is open and easy to navigate. Not like the confusing and crowded Louvre. We saw many works of art by Manet, Degas, Monet, Renoir, van Gogh, Cezanne, Toulouse-Latrec, and others. The museum even owns “Whistler’s Mother”. See the photos of the art at the end.

After a stop at the gift shop, we strolled the nearby streets and found a cafe in the sunshine for a leisurely lunch with a glass of rose wine.

We decided to take it slower today, after yesterdays grueling walkathon at Versailles.

The upper chapel at Sainte-Chapelle

The upper chapel at Sainte-Chapelle

After lunch, we again hopped on the metro and rode it closer to Notre-Dame. We walked by Sainte-Chapelle (the church full of stained glass we missed on Friday due to the long lines), saw that the line was shorter, and made a hasty decision to go in. I’m glad we did. Wow.

The church was built in 1248 for King Louis IX in the Gothic style with many muscular buttresses on the outside to hold up the stone roof, so the walls were essentially there to display stained glass. You walk into the lower half where the peasants worship, then walk up a spiral staircase to the main chapel, where nobles worshiped. There are 15 separate panels of towering glass windows. Its like the entire room is stained glass. The pictures I took don’t do it justice.

We left the church and walked along a street lined with souvenir shops. I was looking for a particular tote bag I saw someone carrying: it had the round stained glass window from Notre-Dame on its sides. We walked into dozens of shops, and no one carried it.

Next, we took the metro and a series of transfers back to the vicinity of our hotel, ditched our bag with the coats, found a cafe in the sunshine and settled in for ice cream, perrier, and people watching.

I can’t believe tomorrow is our last day in Paris. I’m going to miss the outdoor cafes, the small shops. Kevin suggested that downtown Ottawa is similar, and maybe we should think of moving downtown, closer to the theater and the market. We could get rid of a car and save on insurance and gas. He could walk to work. It would be an entirely different lifestyle. Something to ponder on the long plane ride home on Tuesday.

P.S. Hope the Packers play well tonight. We will check the score on line before we go to bed.

More photos from the Orsay museum:

Whistler's Mother

Dance at the Moulin de la Galette, by Renoir

Dance at the Moulin de la Galette, by Renoir

Tiny Dancer, 14 Years Old - by Degas

Tiny Dancer, 14 Years Old - by Degas

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